What makes a Maryland Crab
Cake
a Maryland Crab Cake?
I was born and raised in Annapolis, Maryland. Growing up on the
Chesapeake Bay I learned a lot about blue crabs, both catching them and cooking
them. I remember as a young boy spending Friday nights at my Aunt and Uncle's
house in Mayo, Maryland. Mayo is a small town just south of Annapolis and on
the Chesapeake Bay.
At the crack of dawn on
Saturday mornings, my cousins Ricky, Bobby and I would drag the John boat down
to the water, equipped with a trotline line, a couple of dip nets and a bag of
chicken bones. In just a few hours,
we'd be heading home with bushels of beautiful blue crabs. Once home the women
of the house took over. They would season and steam the crabs, then sit around
the kitchen table, picking sweet crabmeat from their shells. At the end of the
day, each family had several zip lock bags of crabmeat for their use during the
week. On the menu that week would be the likes of Maryland Vegetable Crab Soup,
Crab Imperial, Chilled Crab Salad and of course...Maryland Crab Cakes.
We take our crab cakes
very seriously. As a matter of fact, people of this region often judge the
quality of a restaurant by the crab cakes they serve. In the following article,
I will highlight (in my opinion) the criteria for making traditional Maryland
Crab Cakes. Additionally, I will share my favorite recipe for this treat.
The Crabmeat- Obviously, this one makes the top of the list. It is, so to speak, "the star of the
show". Not only is choosing the correct type of blue crabmeat (and there
are several) but also where the crabs are harvested and processed. Blue
crabmeat basically comes in three varieties: Jumbo Lump, Backfin or Lump and
Claw.
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| FRESH MARYLAND BLUE CRABS |
Jumbo Lumps are beautiful
large lumps of crabmeat. It's similar to Filet Mignon in the regard that it's
visually appealing but not the most flavorful. Claw meat is just the opposite
with a less desirable appearance but the most flavorful part of the crab. Best
practice for a successful crab cake is to use the best of both worlds.
Where
the crabs are caught and processed should also be strongly considered; all
crabmeat is not the same! Blue crabs are harvested
along the east coast from the mid Atlantic to the Gulf of Mexico. I feel (and I may be bias) that Maryland
crabmeat is the best. The crabs live in a colder water climate, slowing their
growth rate, resulting in a sweeter more mature flavor. In this region, the
cooking process is steaming. Along the Carolinas, dredging is the preferred method of harvesting. Stirring up the ocean floor mixing the catch of crabs with muddy water. Winter crabmeat from the Gulf is very similar to Maryland's. But
be careful, certain regions around the Gulf cook their crabs by boiling instead
of the steaming. Boiling washes out some of the flavor of the crab.
 |
| PANADA |
Saltine Crackers - All crab cakes contain what is called a
"panada". Don't think of it as a filler but as a binder or
"glue" that holds the cakes together. This ingredient can come in
many forms such as breadcrumbs, Panko (Japanese breadcrumbs), white bread or my
favorite, crushed saltine crackers. The crackers are a Maryland tradition and
enhance the cakes flavor and texture.
Yellow Mustard - French's Yellow is a must ingredient in order to
arrive at that signature Maryland flavor. In addition to being an ingredient it
is also used as a condiment. Old traditionalist from Baltimore choose yellow
mustard over cocktail or tartar sauce.
Old Bay Seafood
Seasoning - I remember walking around the Inner Harbor of Baltimore when I
was younger. A heavenly perfume
filled the air. Adjacent to the harbor
was
the Baltimore Spice Company's plant. Baltimore Spice was the original
producer of Old Bay Seasoning dating back over 75 years. It's a wonderful blend
of spices that greatly enhances seafood but has many, many more uses. It's a
staple in every Maryland kitchen pantry and a must have in traditional Maryland
crab cakes. I hope you enjoyed a bit of Maryland history and more
importantly...enjoy the Maryland Crab Cakes!
Maryland Crab Cakes -
1 lb. Jumbo Lump Crabmeat
1 lb. Backfin or Lump Crabmeat
1 lb. Claw Crabmeat 2 cups
Crushed Saltine Crackers,
approx. 1/4" to 1/2" pieces
1 cup Crab Cake Mayo
(recipe follows)
1 each Egg
Pan Spray or
Parchment Paper
1) Drain the crabmeats of
any excess liquid.
Place all three crabmeats
in a large mixing bowl.
Using gloved hands (it's
the sanitary thing to do) gentle toss the crabmeats to evenly disperse being
careful not to break up the large lumps of crab.
2) In a separate mixing
bowl, combine the crab cake mayo and the egg. Blend well with a wire whip.
3) Add the crushed
saltines to the crab. Again gently fold together without breaking up the crab
lumps.
4) Add the crab cake mayo
to the crab and gently fold together until just combined.
5) Portion the cakes in 4
oz. increments and form into a ball. Do
not overly press, as the cakes should have a rustic and not manufactured look.
6) Place the cakes on a
parchment lined or lightly greased baking tray. Bake in a 375-degree oven until light golden, approx. 8-10
minutes. Serve with lemon and the
condiment of your choice.
Crab Cake Mayo –
1 Tablespoon Fresh Lemon
Juice
1/4 cup Yellow Mustard
1 Tablespoon + 1 teaspoon
Dry Mustard
2 Tablespoons Flat Leaf
Parsley, chopped
2 teaspoons Tabasco
2 Tablespoons Old Bay
Seasoning
2 cups Mayonnaise
Combine all ingredients in a mixing bowl and blend
well with a wire whip. Transfer to an
appropriate storage container, cover and store refrigerated for future
use.
Note: This recipe yields more than what is
required in the above crab cake recipe, but don't let that scare you. It's a wonderfully seasoned mayonnaise that
can be used to make chicken salad or shrimp salad. Also, you can thin it slightly with a little buttermilk to produce
and Old Bay Buttermilk salad dressing. Just toss some with your favorite greens
and try topping the salad with fried oysters. Now that's a treat!
Ciao,
Chef Joe
