Friday, January 13, 2017

What makes a Maryland Crab Cake

a Maryland Crab Cake?



 I was born and raised in Annapolis, Maryland. Growing up on the Chesapeake Bay I learned a lot about blue crabs, both catching them and cooking them. I remember as a young boy spending Friday nights at my Aunt and Uncle's house in Mayo, Maryland. Mayo is a small town just south of Annapolis and on the Chesapeake Bay. 

At the crack of dawn on Saturday mornings, my cousins Ricky, Bobby and I would drag the John boat down to the water, equipped with a trotline line, a couple of dip nets and a bag of chicken bones.  In just a few hours, we'd be heading home with bushels of beautiful blue crabs. Once home the women of the house took over. They would season and steam the crabs, then sit around the kitchen table, picking sweet crabmeat from their shells. At the end of the day, each family had several zip lock bags of crabmeat for their use during the week. On the menu that week would be the likes of Maryland Vegetable Crab Soup, Crab Imperial, Chilled Crab Salad and of course...Maryland Crab Cakes.


We take our crab cakes very seriously. As a matter of fact, people of this region often judge the quality of a restaurant by the crab cakes they serve. In the following article, I will highlight (in my opinion) the criteria for making traditional Maryland Crab Cakes. Additionally, I will share my favorite recipe for this treat.

The Crabmeat- Obviously, this one makes the top of the list.  It is, so to speak, "the star of the show". Not only is choosing the correct type of blue crabmeat (and there are several) but also where the crabs are harvested and processed. Blue crabmeat basically comes in three varieties: Jumbo Lump, Backfin or Lump and Claw.
FRESH MARYLAND BLUE CRABS

Jumbo Lumps are beautiful large lumps of crabmeat. It's similar to Filet Mignon in the regard that it's visually appealing but not the most flavorful. Claw meat is just the opposite with a less desirable appearance but the most flavorful part of the crab. Best practice for a successful crab cake is to use the best of both worlds.

Where the crabs are caught and processed should also be strongly considered; all crabmeat is not the same! Blue crabs are harvested along the east coast from the mid Atlantic to the Gulf of Mexico.   I feel (and I may be bias) that Maryland crabmeat is the best. The crabs live in a colder water climate, slowing their growth rate, resulting in a sweeter more mature flavor. In this region, the cooking process is steaming. Along the Carolinas, dredging is the preferred method of harvesting. Stirring up the ocean floor mixing the catch of crabs with muddy water. Winter crabmeat from the Gulf is very similar to Maryland's. But be careful, certain regions around the Gulf cook their crabs by boiling instead of the steaming. Boiling washes out some of the flavor of the crab.

PANADA
Saltine Crackers - All crab cakes contain what is called a "panada". Don't think of it as a filler but as a binder or "glue" that holds the cakes together. This ingredient can come in many forms such as breadcrumbs, Panko (Japanese breadcrumbs), white bread or my favorite, crushed saltine crackers. The crackers are a Maryland tradition and enhance the cakes flavor and texture.

Yellow Mustard - French's Yellow is a must ingredient in order to arrive at that signature Maryland flavor. In addition to being an ingredient it is also used as a condiment. Old traditionalist from Baltimore choose yellow mustard over cocktail or tartar sauce.

Old Bay Seafood Seasoning - I remember walking around the Inner Harbor of Baltimore when I was younger. A heavenly perfume filled the air.  Adjacent to the harbor was
the Baltimore Spice Company's plant. Baltimore Spice was the original producer of Old Bay Seasoning dating back over 75 years. It's a wonderful blend of spices that greatly enhances seafood but has many, many more uses. It's a staple in every Maryland kitchen pantry and a must have in traditional Maryland crab cakes. I hope you enjoyed a bit of Maryland history and more importantly...enjoy the Maryland Crab Cakes!


Maryland Crab Cakes -
1 lb.  Jumbo Lump Crabmeat
1 lb.  Backfin or Lump Crabmeat
1 lb.  Claw Crabmeat 2 cups
Crushed Saltine Crackers, approx. 1/4" to 1/2" pieces
1 cup Crab Cake Mayo (recipe follows)
1 each Egg
Pan Spray or Parchment Paper

1) Drain the crabmeats of any excess liquid. 
Place all three crabmeats in a large mixing bowl. 
Using gloved hands (it's the sanitary thing to do) gentle toss the crabmeats to evenly disperse being careful not to break up the large lumps of crab.

2) In a separate mixing bowl, combine the crab cake mayo and the egg. Blend well with a wire whip.

3) Add the crushed saltines to the crab. Again gently fold together without breaking up the crab lumps.

4) Add the crab cake mayo to the crab and gently fold together until just combined.

5) Portion the cakes in 4 oz. increments and form into a ball.  Do not overly press, as the cakes should have a rustic and not manufactured look.

6) Place the cakes on a parchment lined or lightly greased baking tray.  Bake in a 375-degree oven until light golden, approx. 8-10 minutes.  Serve with lemon and the condiment of your choice.

Crab Cake Mayo
1 Tablespoon Fresh Lemon Juice
1/4 cup Yellow Mustard
1 Tablespoon + 1 teaspoon Dry Mustard
2 Tablespoons Flat Leaf Parsley, chopped
2 teaspoons Tabasco
2 Tablespoons Old Bay Seasoning
2 cups Mayonnaise

Combine all ingredients in a mixing bowl and blend well with a wire whip.  Transfer to an appropriate storage container, cover and store refrigerated for future use.  

Note:  This recipe yields more than what is required in the above crab cake recipe, but don't let that scare you.  It's a wonderfully seasoned mayonnaise that can be used to make chicken salad or shrimp salad.  Also, you can thin it slightly with a little buttermilk to produce and Old Bay Buttermilk salad dressing. Just toss some with your favorite greens and try topping the salad with fried oysters. Now that's a treat!

Ciao,
Chef Joe


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